A little extra space helps, and can be tightened with a washer if needed

Install the front-facing panel and movable legs to the mattress box 

A strip of hardwood hides the joint and customizes the look

A lot of pocket screws hold the sides and bottom ribs together

 

The two-part bottom panel assembly is about aesthetics, not structure

An inexpensive tool, a mid-priced one, and a high-dollar cordless saw combine into a nice little system for clean and accurate mitering

The absence of an accident does not mean the presence of safety; push sticks are expendable; fingers are not.

Four straight 2x6s, a lot of glue, a mortiser, planer, sharp chisels, band saw, Forstner bits, a block plane, oscillating spindle sander, and a rubber mallet are all you need

Edgebanding without sanding: call attention to the joint rather than trying to hide it. Because you won't hide it.

An accurate setup made from scraps can help you salvage lumber that is too crooked to frame with but could be great for blocking or furring strips

How to account for a room that is not plumb, level, or square when you have a truckload of expensive (and square) boxes to install.

Marking, cutting, and glue-up tips that you may have forgotten about

Use scraps to offset the straight edge allowing you to cut each edge of the dado with opposite edges of a router bit

 

Rather than cover the joint between drywall and door frame, celebrate the gap with an architectural reglet

Masking tape and a sharp knife are hard to beat for production precision

Two reasons: you're not paying attention, or you're doing it wrong

When the humps don't match the bumps, you need a second molding profile—or you can eliminate the plumb cut

Q: How many holes will Matt cut before finding the leak?

A: As many as it takes!