Daniel Morrison | May 29, 2015

YouTube // HVAC & Mechanicals, Plumbing, Electrical

Three Ways to Wire a Panasonic WhisperGreen Select Exhaust Fan


You can control the bath fan and the light from the switch, automate with motion and sensor controls, or you can mix and match methods. You can even tinker at the switch



Panasonic is pleased to offer the most technologically advanced and energy efficient ventilation fan. WhisperGreen Select allows you to customize the fan to suit your customers' particular needs.

As with all Panasonic fan and fan/light units, the WhisperGreen Select is UL listed for installation into a tub or shower enclosure when GFCI protected.

It is best to have an idea how you or your customer would like the WhisperGreen Select fan operate before you start the installation. Depending on the desired function, you can choose from one of three wiring methods.

We'll cover the three methods in this tutorial and explain the fan's operation with each method. 

Before we get started on wiring methods, it's important to note that every base model WhisperGreen Select is three fans in one right out of the box.

You'll find a CFM selector switch on the fans motor plate which allows you to set the speed of a WhisperGreen Select fan (50-80-110 or 110-130-150 CFM, depending on the model).

Simply select the speed you would like the fan to operate at by moving the selector switch to the desired CFM.

Upon opening the fans junction box cover, you will find that the WhisperGreen Select contains a black, white, and green wire leads along with two red wire leads on the fan only.

The fan/light units have an extra black and white lead for the light kit.

Please note: you will need to adhere to and obey all local wiring codes.


Method 1: only control fan from wall switch (1:35)

The first method is the most basic installation method. In this use, we'll be wiring the fan for on and off use as a spot ventilation fan, and we're not looking to add any of the plug and play modules for the WhisperGreen Select.

  • Bring power from the panel to a wall switch.
  • At the wall switch, attach the wire for the power conductor (the black cable) at the line side of a single-pole switch.
  • From the switch, continue the run with the power conductor—again, the black cable—connected to the load side of the switch up into the fan junction box connected to the black conductor from the fans motor.
  • The neutral conductors, the white cables, connect together at the switch box and continue to the junction box where it is conducted to the white lead in the junction box.
  • The ground wires is brought up to the wall switch continues up to the ground lead, the green wire, from the junction box.
  • The two red wires remain untouched. There is no need to do anything with them. 

When using this method, it's important to note that if you choose to have any of the plug and play modules at a later time, they will only work if the on switch is in the 'on' position. Otherwise, there will be no power to the fan.


Method 2: Automatic operation (2:45)

Using this method, you would be using the motion sensor module and/or the condensation sensor to either turn the fan on or off. Or, if using the continuous run module to boost the fan from low to high speed.

If you choose this wiring method, you will not have manual control of the fan. You will be relying on the sensors only to control the fan.

  • Bring power from the source directly to the fans junction box. 
  • Bring the power lead (the black conductor) to the power lead for the fans motor
  • The Neutral lead (the white wire) to the white lead in the fans junction box
  • And the bare ground wire to the green wire in the fan junction box. 
  • Leave the red wires capped separately and tucked into the junction box.


Method 3: Manual control with wall switch and sensor controls (3:30)

The third method we'll discuss is for manual control of the fan with a wall switch in conjunction with any of the plug and play modules.

  • Bring power from the source directly to the fans junction box.
  • Bring the power lead (the black conductor) to the power lead for the fans motor
  • The Neutral lead (the white wire) to the white lead in the fans junction box
  • Attach the bare ground wire to the green wire in the fan junction box. 
  • The red wires are signal wires that are designed to turn the fan from standby to 'on' or from low to high speed if using the continuous run module. They are NOT designed to carry current, DO NOT attach power to these conductors. These conductors are connected to either side of a standard single pole switch.

Turning the switch to the 'on' position allows the fan to turn on or boost from low to highly completing the signal loop to the fans motor. 

With this wiring method, you can still use both the motion sensor and the condensation sensor modules as secondary control however, please note that these controls will only be active when the wall switch is in the off position.

With the switch in the on position, the signal loop will be completed and the fan will, be in the active mode. The motion sensor and/or condensation sensor will not affect the fan at this point.


Fan/light models expand the wall switch options (4:43)

When wiring a fan/light model, you will need a separate circuit for the light switch as you cannot supply line voltage to the red wires.

To wire a fan/light, you can use two separate signal pole switches, and run separate switches for the light kit and the signal loop for the fan motor.

Or, if you prefer, you can use a single pole over single pole switch, breaking the common tab on the line side of the switch. Use one switch to control power to the light and use the other switch to control the signal loop for the fan motor.

If you would like to use one switch to have the light come on when you turn the fan on or to its boost mode, you can use a double-pole, single throw switch. Use one pole to control power to the light kit and use the other pole to connect the wires for the the signal loop for the fan motor.

Using this method when the switch is turned on, the light will turn on and the fan will either turn on or move into boost mode. When the switch is turned off, the light will turn off, but the fan will continue to operate at full speed until the delay timer times out.



— This article is by PanasonicIAQ, one of ProTradeCraft's advertisers. #PanasonicIAQ is the premier manufacturer of powerful, energy-efficient ventilation fans that quietly exhaust unhealthy, unpleasant or moist air from home or business. See all of PanasonicIAQ's content here.



When I turn the wall switch for my fan on, there is a 30 second delay before the fan actually turns on. The light goes on immediately but the fan delays. I just had the unit installed today. I find the delay annoying especially after buying such a high priced unit. I have no modules and I don't intend to buy any. Can I wire it differently so that the fan comes on immediately?



The WhisperGreen Select Fans use a DC motor to manage air output regardless of static pressure.  When first energized, you are actually powering up 3 different printed circuit boards.  After each circuit board runs through it's self check, it energizes the next board.  While this takes a few seconds, and it may seem like forever before you hear the fan spool to a speed that your familiar with, the self check process only takes about 5 seconds.

The installation manual that came with the fan seems to describe a three switch system (similar to wiring method three plus the light) - light, fan power, control switch, but this site is saying, in wiring method three, to bring power directly to the fan and only have two switches, one for the light and one for the control (red wires). Which is correct? What happens to the control modules if I use a three switch system?

I just had one of these put in my bathroom. I too, am annoyed by the delay. I seems like a step backward. Mine delays about 15 seconds, a lot longer than the 5 stated. by Ken Nelson.

I recently bought a home with a panasonic fan installed and it stays on all the time even though it has a motion sensor. I recently tried to adjust the time and the CFM switches (turned them to zero and back up near the maximum) but varying these did not modify the fan speed or it running full-time. The light functions correctly, turning on and off with the wall light switch. Do you think the problem with the fan running all the time and being unresponsive is a function of how it was initially wired or something else, perhaps wrong with the unit itself?


i installed new fan  it has motion sensor. fan does turn off never


I have some trouble shooting suggestions.

It would be helpful if I knew the part number of the fan. There are different troubleshooting pathways depending on what generation fan it is.  Most issues related to the fan not ramping down are a result of excessive static pressure.  A feature of the fan is that it will give the rated output regardless of static pressure (bad ducting) by increasing the fan motor RPM.  I would have you check your ducting.  You would be looking for sharp bends, or obstructions at the wall cap. 

As well, set the fan dials at zero CFM continuous and 30 seconds on the count down timer and make sure the motion sensor can not see you.  Wrap it in electrician's tape and push it back into the "fan can" so it cannot see your heat signature.  If the fan cycles down after 30 seconds it tells me you have duct obstruction.  If it does not, depending on the fan part number you may have a bad fan and it will need to be replaced.

If it's one of the current generation fans, you will have to check the fan wiring.  In the junction box will be two red wires.  Look to see that they are not tied together under one wire connector.  They should be individually capped with one wire connector on each red wire.

Having said all that, first generation WhisperGreen Fans ran continuous at 30 cfm, there was no way to shut them off.  Let me know a part number and we'll go from there.

Ken Nelson



Hi Ken,

Thanks for this article.  Followed your recommendations and hid the motion sensor (and adjusted the cycle time and CFM).  Sure enough the fan did not cycle down.  So I went to step 2 - Looking for a duct obstruction.  Low and Behold - Bingo - That was it. So here's the story;  We bought this new construction home in Aug 2015.  As time progressed I noticed teh fan would stay at the high speed setting.  No cycling up and back down. FYI - The exhaust ducting runs parallel to the bathroom ceiling and is vented pointing down through the exterior roof soffit area.  Turns out at that output is window screen material which loaded up with dust/dirt over a 1 year period or so.  So I used an extension ladder and brushed all the dirt accumulation off the screen with a tooth brush.  I could hear the fan starting to slow down (back to normal) as I cleared the blocked exhaust port.  So in your opinion should I replace that exhaust screen with a more open/porous screening material or remove it all together to avoid future issues?  Thanks for the help.  Have a good day.

I had the same problem.  Turned out that the electrician did not cap the red wires when he put them back in the junction box.  Both wires were touching the metal housing of the box.  Once I put individual caps on them the fan powered down perfectly using both the motion sensor and the condensation sensor. 

Hello, I have 3 Panasonic  Whisper Green Lite (FV-08VKSL1) bathroom fans. These were installed during construction (~6yr ago). I cant stand them.  The are hard wired from the panel directly to the fan, and no ability to over ride the constant fan (and only turns off during a power outage).  In the winter, I cringe when the heat is put on and I feels all the heat in the room is sucked up and out.  Could you tell me the options for replacement?  They are currently wired to a triple gang box on wall (for light, nightlight, and fan boost switches).  I would prefer to have manual control of the individual fans function. Thank you for your time.


  • "Generally speaking", is it acceptable per electrical code to wire the fan directly from the circuit breaker without utilizing a switch.  The only disconnecting means would be the circuit breaker.  I do understand local codes can vary.


The FV-08VKSL1 was a first generation application that did not allow for the continuous run function to be defeated.  Later generations did – sorry for this inconvenience.  Your continuous run settings can be minimized by turning the speed control dial to 30 cfm.  The fan should be very quiet at that point.

Keep in mind that even if you turned the fan off, when the “inside to outside” temperature difference is more than 20 degrees you will most likely have at least a 30 cfm airflow through the “fan can” caused by stack effect. (The expansion of heated air in the house.)  Continuous airflow is critical for your house.  Without which you run the very real possibility of have mold & mildew issues.

As far as replacement options.  Our newer models (FV-05-11VKSL1) will allow you to set the continuous run function to zero cfm.  But again, in cold weather you might find that the air will move through the fan assembly as if it were turning at 30 cfm.

Please note that the newer lighted model will not accommodate a night light switch.  You can go to the Panasonic website and download the installation instructions for more clarification.

Ken Nelson


We had a brief 5 second whole house power outage, after which the fan won't come on. All the circuit breakers are on. I tried cycling through the delay and cfm switches on the fan but nothing changed. Is there a reset? Thanks

Is there any way to adjust the motion sensitivity? When I walk down the hall past the door to the bathroom the fan comes on. Everything else works fine and really like the fan. The kludge fix is to leave the door partway closed, but not really the esthetic choice. Can't find an adjustment for motion in the docs. 

Hi, I have the FV-05-11 vk1 with motion sensor  fv-msvk1 and fv-vs15vk1 time delay.  I set integral speed setting to 50cfm, then multi-speed module to 110cfm with 20 minute delay.  Runs all the time at 50cfm, does not cycle up to 110 with motion./  Tried various tests on it  Room steams up during showing for my customer.  I am an electrician.  Any suggestions?   Thank you

contractor is just completing installation of the fan and switches. installed with 2 wall switches (power and control switch). But nitelight only turns on when fan is on (ie control switch) and it blinks on and off (it is dark in the room). Haven't tested humidity switch yet. Haven't checked their wiring. Hoping it was done right. Suggestions?


The timer module FV-VS15VK1 do not work (I have two exact set ups) Just want to put switch timer on both, but timer tried T51H turns on light but not fan. called Lutron they suggested MA-T51H. Same thing light works on timer but no fan. Any suggestions

The Lutron timer breaks the power supply.  Once power is interrupted the FV-VS15VK1 timer should not work.If you have the timer power supply going to the red send & receive wires, it might work but is not supported by Panasonic.  You shouldn't need any secondary timers with the integrated timers anyway.  If you want the fan component to shut completely off, set the continuous run value to zero.  Or get rid of the VS15VK1 and the Lutron timer should work but no modules will then work.

The best scenario is to keep the (FV-VS15VK1) integrated timer, set continuous run to zero, the timer portion of it to 5 minutes and buy/add the Moisture Sensor Module (FV-CSVK1) and let the fan be completely self controlled.  You'll never have to turn it on or off again.  And it will always be on guard if there is a moisture bloom ocurring in the house for any reason.

We have installed a Panasonic FV-11-15VKL1 ventilation system to our bathroom sized 156 X 80 inches. We set the speed to 150 CFM. After a shower, whole bathroom is sweaty, even the adjacent ceilings left dripping with condensation. What can we do to solve this problem. 


Daniel Morrison's picture


I will forward your Q to Panasonic. In the meantime, what is the condition of the duct run between the fan and the outside? Every 90-degree turn adds a tremendous amount of resistance. Also, flex duct adds internal resistance to air flow, and the exit cap can keep a lot of air from exiting if it is sticky or heavy.

If you have access to a balometer, it's a good idea to test the flow to see if the fan/duct/wall cap are actually moving the air you hired them to move.



As Dan suggested, I would start with reviewing the ducting.  As long as the fan turns on, it would be difficult for it not to move air.  I would look at the ducting path starting with whether the backdraft damper opens and closes properly.  The backdraft damper is taped shut for shipping, sometimes the installer will forget to remove it on installation. 

But the most common cause of resistance at the fan is that the damper will be "pinned" closed by sheet metal screws.  This occurs at the connection point of the ducting and backdraft damper.  The installer screws the ducting to the fans duct adapter and the backdraft damper gets pinned closed.  The fan will never move air with that damper locked closed.  To check on the damper you can drop the "guts" of the fan and stick your hand through the damper assembly from inside the can.  It should open and close with little or no resistance.  If it does open and close easily, double check that there are no pinch points in the ducting and that the external cap is clear.  The external cap will generally have some kind of backdraft damper that should be reviewed as well.

Hope this helps.

I had a electrician install a FV-05-11VK1 and I provided him with the details on how to wire it via method 3 (from this web page and the video). The fan runs continuously with out having to close the switch (red wires attached to). I have no additional sensors installed at this time other than the speed setting switch 50/80/110.

I metered the connection at the fan and there is Line/Neutral to the black/white of the fan and I verified 120V.  The two reds leads to the switch had no voltage between L/N or either between ground with the fan moles plug disconnected. When I plug in the fan (white plug) connector to the Molex plug the fan starts and when I meter the red lines there is 120V on one red line and nothing on the other.

Based on my review of the wiring post installation I do not believe the wiring is incorrect. Is this a defective fan or did the electrician do something (apply AC to one of the red wires) to damage the fan?

I probably should have wired this myself, because I was not present during installation, so I do not know if he applied AC power in either of the RED lines - which I verified he understood prior to him installing it.

 Thanks for any direction.

 /Robert Kenney




I've been installing the previous series of Panasonic fans for well over ten years - they had an AC motor, were very quiet, were easy to install and I had them down to a science. I've installed literally hundreds of these fans without any complaints. Now Panasonic has stopped making the AC motor and is solely DC - with a very annoying delay in start times. 

When the fan is wired in a standard installation there is a 10-15 second wait period as the fan decides to start working, and I'm somehow supposed to convince my customers that this is not only acceptable, it's a feature! My customers aren't as accommodating or accepting as the Panasonic engineers decided they would be when they made the choice for me and my customers that this delay was acceptable.

Today I talked with the Panasonic rep and he told me tough luck - deal with it. Now, understand - I'm HIS customer, and he expects me to treat MY customers the same way and tell them buck up buttercup, stop your complaining and take what we offer and be glad for it. If I treated my customers this way I would be out of business in short order - deservedly.

But Panasonic is a gigantic corporation that could really care less about the tiny fraction of its business that exhaust fans represent and is allowing engineers to dictate what the customer gets, instead of customers dictating what they want and the engineers meeting their demands.

I am saddened by this situation because the Panasonic bath fan has been a large part of my business for years now and I'm an expert and selling and installing them, but no more. Now I have to find a new product that performs similarly to the old AC motor Panasonic fans, or just deal with it and treat my customers the same way Panasonic is treating theirs -  tell them to deal with it.

Ditto. You have hit the nail right on the head for this very annoying Panasonic “feature”

I just had three of these fans installed in my house, all replaced old fans that have a simple standard on-off switch. NO modules are installed. The 3-speed selector switch does nothing. The fans are always at high speed. The electrician says he tried leaving the red wires separated then tried it with them connected. The fan will not change speeds regardless if where the selector switch is set. Have I been mislead on this speed setting? Does it not actually function without a separate switch for the red wires? This selectable speed was one reason I picked these fans and now I can't use it. Has anyone had success getting this to work?

The fan switch must be on for the night light to come on?

What are good timer models to use with a Panasonic WhisperCeiling DC (FV-0511-VQ1)?

I retrofit one bathroom with this fan; it was a cheap Hudson Bay model. The existing timer is a Lutron MA-T51, which I like a lot. But it seems like the Panasonic fan does not draw the minimum power required to work with the Lutron timer (0.3A, 40W). 

I have my fans wired to a Woods mechanical timer. No problems there.

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