LaCantina Sliding Stacking Glass Door Installation (3): Frame Prep and Joinery

January 13, 2015

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Assemble the frame on a flat surface so that joints are tight and square

This is part 1 of a ten-part video series.

 

Transcript of video:

Video 3: Frame Prep and Joinery

Lee Maughan: With the sliders, you have an option to either epoxy the sill down nice and flat, or actually use these screw tabs to screw the sill down flat.

Josh Temple: Okay. Right.

LM: Okay? The epoxy works pretty well. If you can get it nice and flat, the doors go on and pin it down without it wanting to come up, okay, and it dries pretty quick.

So we need to go around, drill both jambs, the head. We're going to get the drill bit here, get that ready. Now, I've got a small section here. I just want to kind of highlight exactly where we're going to be pre-drilling. So this is a section of our slider, right?

We've got the head, the jamb, and the sill. So you'll notice the jamb and head tracks are exactly the same extrusion. They're mitered on the corner and they just continue around, and the door slides in between. So the installation points are exactly the same for the jamb and the head. We're going to install on this inner track and the outer track. So again, we don't get any rocking. We can set it nice and flat. Unlike the folding, we do shim the head on the sliders. So with those inside and outside screw points, fixing points, we can keep it nice and flat.

And again, down here we've got our screw tabs. This one actually has the bullnose on it, screw tabs interior and exterior. So this one you can see has actually got the cover plates already installed, which we'll put on later. We're going to pre-drill the sill. And then we'll move to the jambs and the head.

JT: Okay.

LM: Alright. So again, we're pre-drilling the tabs. We don't need to drill through the sill. That's why these installation tabs were designed, so you wouldn't have to go through the sill and create weak points within the sill. So 4 and a half inches right on this installation screw line.

Alright. So we've put the interior hole in. We also have to put the exterior hole in the same location.

JT: And sometimes seen as a stupid question, but you can tell this is interior because of the weather stripping, correct?

LM: Yeah. So the interior does have this lag here and you can also identify the exterior by the weep holes. Because you don't want water flowing into your home.

JT: That's right, unless you have a very interesting home, like with a lot of plants or something.

LM: Yes, unless you live outside.

Alright. So same up here, 4 and a half inches.

Now we're going to put one right in the middle, and then we're going to go 20 inches on center, both sides.

JT: Okay. Math time. Math time.

LM: 71.

JT: It's 143.

LM: 71 and a half.

Alright. Now, we're going to go every 20 inches left and right of that center hole.

JT: So start at the center and pull 20 left and right.

LM: Alright. So we're pretty much there with that 4 and a half inch end hole. So we'll go over to the other side.

So the sill's ready to go. We'll move over to the jambs and then up to the head.

03:50 JT: You preach a lot about clearing up those shavings.

LM: Yep.

JT: Especially with the roller, because of the rollers.

LM: Yes.

JT: But you need them just as bad here.

LM: Yeah, absolutely, and you want your shavings out of there. You don't want anything binding up your system, interfering with your screw heads or your installation.

JT: So just an air nozzle on a compressor, on a hose, just blow it all off.

LM: Yep. Yes. Blow it all out.

JT: Okay, great.

04:13 LM: We're going to start 4 and 1/2 inches down just like we did with the sill.

And then we're going to go 4 and 1/2 inches up.

And then we're going to put one in the center.

And again...

JT: And that's it?

LM: And then again, we're going to go 20 inches on center. If you can, if the jamb's shorter, just center that other hole. So let's get started. So it's the outer track right in the middle.

JT: The location of these holes is actually in the manual, and...

LM: It is. It's in the manual.

JT: I know because I put in this specific model, and it's real easy to decipher.

LM: Yep. It's all in there with drawings, very easy to understand. Okay? So there's the top. Let's go to the bottom. We'll put the same... 4 and 1/2 inches up is the outer one. We'll move over to the inside.

Okay. Now we're going to go on center.

So we'll go 20 inches.

So 20 inches over here, outer track.

And inner track.

So you'll notice there's another track here. This is actually for the screen that we're going to be putting in. Unless it's got a screen, you'll just be receiving these three tracks, or however many tracks, depending on the configuration. Alright. So let's move over to the head. So we've done the sill. We've done the jamb. We're going to move on to the head. As I mentioned as we were pre-drilling the jamb, it's the same extrusion. It's a continuation across the head. So we're going to do the same prep, okay?

That's on the inner channel and the outer channel. Same as the jambs, you go 4 and 1/2 in on center, and then every 20 inch. So let's start. We're going to come in 4 and 1/2 inches from this end, and then move down and do the same.

Okay. There's the inner track.

Let's move up here. So 4-1/2 inches, again, the far in track.

And we're going to go, what was it, 71.5?

JT: Now you're going to move 20?

LM: Yup. We're going to go every 20 inches, both to the left and the right. Let's blow out all the shavings.

JT: Look at that. I was right. I was with you, buddy. One, two, three, four, we're all pre-drilled.

LM: Yup.

JT: It's time to join it, yeah?

LM: Yeah. Now's probably a good time to get the hardware box. There are corner keys in there, that we have to join the frame with, so let's have a look what's in there.

JT: And definitely installers: First thing you do is open that box, when you have corner keys and make sure you have them all.

LM: First and foremost, what would be on top of the hardware box will be an installation manual. It has a quality control check list for the installer at the very front. And it goes through step-by-step, how to put these systems in. It's really easy to understand and guide you through the installation process.

JT: Right. Actually, I will say that these guides are perfect. They're not like the stick guide with a screw driver. These are the real parts. And you can definitely distinguish which end to use on all of this stuff.

LM: Like the folding we have, a bunch of screws in here, they're all labeled. So you've got your head installation screws, you've got your jamb installation screws, you've got your sill installation screws. The sill installation screws include both wood and concrete screws, depending on your floor condition.

JT: I knew what you were going to say.

LM: Most of the frames out there are actually wood box, wood rough openings, but you do encounter steel and concrete openings as well. What else we got in here? A homeowners manual, Gummi buffles.

JT: You couldn't wait to say that.

LM: These are called Gummi buffles.

JT: Are they really?

LM: They are. It's a German word. So they actually go up in the holes, in the slide...

To stop any critters going in there or birds, or whatever wants to get up in there.

JT: Interesting.

LM: But Gummi buffles.

JT: Gummi buffles.

LM: Got some bumper stops, for the end of your door, so as you open your door, it bumps against the jamb cover plate, it deadens the blow. And we've got some corner keys. So we're going to need these corner keys to join the frame. We're all pre-drilled, why don't we start sealing the joints and joining the frame?

09:05 JT: Alright, so just a quick note, this box is like... All of these parts are vital. And you can't really get these parts at a local hardware store, if you don't have them. So, do yourself a favor and do that quick checklist beforehand. Because as you can see, a lot of these things, like these screws, it would just take too much to actually try and match them, get them done and then you can't find these anywhere else. So, make sure you have them.

LM: And depending on how many tracks you have, will dictate how many corner keys you have, right? So, what we're going to do, is we're going to go insert them in-between these thermal breaks here. So you'll see these struts, they're actual thermal breaks. These corner keys have pre-drilled holes, and basically, I just slide these in. They're going to line up with pre-drilled holes in the backside of the jamb.

JT: I love this. This is a slick design. I like this engineering right here.

LM: Yeah. This is actually... It's a miter joint, so the corner keys work well.

Keep it nice and flush when you tighten it up.

JT: And when you're dealing with these long runs like this, it's really actually nice to have that guide.

LM: Yup. Now, the sill is a little bit different. That has boss points to butt joint which you attach with screws. We're going to put these corner keys in. Also, in the hardware kit, we've got corner key screws. They're labeled. It's pretty straight forward. We're going to move over to the other side, and put the corner keys in the other jamb, and then we can stand them up on edge and start sealing the corners and joining it.

JT: So in installation, Lee, do you start with the top, because the miters are a little trickier?

LM: That would be a good idea, because you need to kind of spread the jambs to fit this in the head track.

JT: Right.

LM: Yeah, let's do that. As we stand it up on edge, that's when we put the screws in the back side first, then we seal and then we can move down to the sill.

Now as you see, it is the same track. It's just a continuation into the head. So, the profile's the same. The corner keys will just slide into the head track, in the same location.

JT: You need a drill.

LM: Yes. Okay. And on the back side, you'll see these holes in-line. So we can just pop a couple of screws in there.

JT: And then you want to pull out that so that it's perfectly aligned, right?

LM: Yeah, yeah.

JT: And I've noticed these screws are a little proud, they don't have to be countersunk.

LM: They don't, no. As I mentioned earlier, it actually does have a screen extrusion on the interior. We don't need to seal that, but we do need to seal around the contact points of the sliding frame track. Once the sill is on, we're going to slide these corner keys into the profile of the head track. So it's the same extrusion, it goes in the same location. Now, I'm using a clear sealant here. So when it dries, you can either just leave it or cut it away, but it won't be as noticeable, being clear.

JT: Well, and here's the other thing to remember on this, and I know this sounds a little simple, but when you cut your sealant, make sure you have a little fine point on this, 'cause you're trying to get it on some pretty narrow stuff.

LM: Right. Okay, so make sure you get all the contact points. This is extremely important on the sill portion, which we'll do in a moment.

JT: And do you seal these?

LM: No, that actually goes into the extrusion. Okay, so when we join it, we want to make sure that the head's square at a 90 degree to the jamb, which will allow the corner key to actually slide in. So, I'm just going to come over here and... Okay.

So we've got that started.

JT: You're in.

LM: A mallet's nice just to give it a little tap.

So tap it until that joins nice and tight. Your holes will align on the head track and you pop a couple of screws into the head track.

JT: Yeah, and the great thing about that design is once you hit that, once you find that groove, those miters just come and seal real nice.

LM: Yeah, and hold it really tight together. So...

I just want to tweak it that way, a little bit.

JT: Out? Nice.

LM: Yeah. Perfect.

JT: Now, let me ask you this. Do you clean off this if you want?

LM: You can. I'd say leave it there until it dries, so you get a real positive seal, and then if you want to cut it away, you can cut it away later.

JT: It's probably actually easier dry, huh?

LM: Yeah.

JT: Yeah. There's a good tip there, Lee, see.

14:14 LM: Oh, yeah. And two more. Alright, so I'm going to finish this.

Join the rest of them.

We're going to seal the sill joint now, where it joins onto the jamb. Really critical step. We're going to seal all the contact points where it hits the jamb.

As well as all the voids, okay. So when water runs into the extrusion, it will run out, but some water, potentially, will go towards the jamb.

So we want to make sure that that's all very nicely sealed, so it can't leak out the bottom.

14:49 JT: Right, so a leak properly comes out the weep hole right here.

LM: That's right.

JT: Got it.

LM: So again, a fine tip on your silicon gun is going to work nicely because you're trying to apply it to thin metal extrusions.

JT: Lee, that's literally a fine tip.

LM: I want to make sure to get this back leg here.

Okay. And we're going to go ahead and fill all the voids. So just take your time with this. It's important that you get everywhere. It only takes a very small opening for water to leak through.

Water will find its way everywhere.

JT: Right. This saves you the service call later, right here.

LM: Most of the leaks... All of the leaks we see are typically install related from not properly sealing the joints. Alright, so we're ready to stand it up Josh. And join it.

JT: Okay.

LM: It does not use corner keys. It's actually got boss points in here. So the holes are pre-drilled on the back side of the jamb.

It's a matter of getting the assembly screw out of the hardware box. And once you butt it up, it'll align with these boss points. So this particular system has a screen, so if it's screened down, let's just put some blocks here if you've got some, just to raise the sill up where it needs to be. Now, you're looking to align this front edge with this jamb face right here, okay.

16:42 JT: Do you ever try and hand tighten first, just to make sure you're there?

LM: Yeah, absolutely. As I said, it is threaded so it'll bite very easily, get it started. So again, we want to square it up.

So it's a nice clean join. So we're set there. So it's nice if you can do this just with the one shot, so it doesn't wipe away the sealant, and compromise the joint.

As you mentioned, we're just going to find it. Okay, so once you get that started, you can knock the blocks out.

Get it started up with your hands. All the sealant's still intact.

17:39 LM: Okay, so there's one side. We'll move across, we'll do the other side.

JT: Do you want to know the good news?

LM: What's the good news?

JT: Perfectly lined up and ready for screws right here.

LM: Alright beautiful. Did you put sealant on it?

JT: Yep.

LM: Okay.

JT: All sealed.

LM: Alright, so after you've joined it, another important step, see these voids here, where the thermal breaks are?

JT: I do.

LM: It's a good idea just to inject some silicon in there. You are going to put a bed of sealant on the sill pane...

Prior to joining. But it's always good just to block these holes prior to doing that in case the bed of sealant doesn't capture it. Okay.

So now we're fully sealed, we're ready to put it in the hole.

JT: Excellent.

18:18 LM: Okay. This particular frame has a screen on it.

So on the jambs and the head, the screen tracks are already attached. The sill is not. So, what we're going to do, it's screen down at the moment. We're going to flip it over, attach the screen component to the sill and then we can put it in the opening. Okay. So you want to access the interior of the sill, 'cause that's where the screen is.

Okay. So now we've got that exposed.

We can get the screen component that we put over here in the safe place.

JT: Yes, yes. This is an impressive frame.

LM: Typically, the screen frames are going to be wider than your folding frame.

Your folding frame's always going to be 5 and 5/8, no matter how many doors you got in it. As you add doors to a multi-slide, the track... You have to add tracks.

So the overall jamb dimension grows. On this screen component, you'll see that there's double side, adhesive tape already stuck to it. You just gotta peel the back off.

And then flush it out to the interior leg.

So let's go down and do that. Without taking the tape off, we'll just dry fit it to show you how it fits on.

It's going to flush to the top of the interior leg and butt up underneath this jamb. Okay?

JT: Like that?

LM: Yep.

Okay, so let's take the tape off.

JT: Okay.

19:50 LM: Now this is a pleated screen that we're doing today, the non-pleated screen, also attaches to the multi-slide frame.

We saw that earlier on with the folding installation. It's a very similar installation, but it's just going on a multi-slide frame. Okay? The backing is being taken off. We're going to make sure it's flush to the top of that interior leg and butt up underneath.

JT: Want to set your side first?

LM: So, we want to work down towards the middle, make sure it's flush all the way down.

And just press it on there. It's amazing how strong the VHB Tape is. So you'll notice that the screen sill is a little bit lower in profile than the sliding sill. So we will need to pack that out prior to installing, so we'll put those in place and then sit it over the top of it, okay?

JT: Okay, so what does that look like? That's like...

LM: It's about a quarter inch.

Okay, so let's put those in place and we'll walk over to the opening and we'll talk about the flashing a little bit.

JT: Right.

 

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