This is part 1 of a ten-part video series.
Transcript of video:
Video 4: Rough Opening and Sill Review
Lee Maughan: So we're here at the opening Josh. This particular multi-slide is what we call, an XXO. It's got a fixed panel and two other panels collect and stack behind the fixed panel.
Josh Taylor: Right.
LM: Later on we'll be looking at the pocketing configuration...
Where it actually stacks into a pocket. We do have a sill pan as you can see. Underneath the sill pan, we've put our flashing. This is being treated as a block installation versus a nail fin. We don't offer a nail fin on our multi-slide system because of the fixing points and where it situates in the depth of the frame. Underneath this sill pan, which is required for the install, we have the flashing, we have a downturn leg that we sealed behind, and we've sealed underneath the sill pan. So the sill pan's actually sealed into the opening, okay. Now, it's important to put any shims underneath the sill pan versus on top of the sill pan, in-between the sill and the sill pan.
JT: Meaning, if the opening is not level, correct?
LM: That's right.
JT: Okay. So if we're on... I mean, definitely for renovation or whatever, you're going to be a little off.
01:36 LM: Even new construction, if you've got a perfectly flat sill, it's fantastic, but more often than not, it's going to be unlevel and it's going to require some shimming and we recommend under the sill pan... Versus on top.
01:52 LM: Okay. Now in this situation, the sheathing's on, we have the weather-resistant barrier, the house wrap already applied to the exterior of the home. We've got flexible flashing on both jams, and we've cut the top flashing and taped it up. After we get this in, we're going to put backing rod in and sealant, which is standard in a block installation.
And then we're going to put the top flexible flashing across the top underneath the taped up weather-resistant barrier, and then fold that over the top.
Okay. It's pretty standard. A great reference is the master's installation manual.
It's fantastic, goes through all the different products out there, from windows to all types of doors, and really guides you in how you should be integrating your flashing into your product.
02:42 JT: Well ultimately, it is the installer's responsibility to do that, but you also have a GC that makes a living out of flashing houses, doors and windows.
LM: Absolutely. You should be consulting... We ship all over the nation...
And internationally. So there's a lot of different applications, different areas, different structures out there. So, we highly recommend you consult with your contractor or waterproofing expert.
JT: Right. And in case of an inspection, inspectors will say, "Well, show me the manufacturer's recommendation." So that does hold a lot of weight.
LM: Yes. We are ready to put some sealant down on the sill...And put the system in.
What we're going to do is we're going to mark out the depth of the track, put some lines in so we know where the sealant should be located. On the back side, we're going to put a continuous seal all the way across. On the front, we're going to put a discontinuous seal every four feet of about two inches, so if any moisture collects on the sill pan, it's got a way to get out.
03:43 LM: Okay. Alright, so we're going to mark this out. One thing I wanted to point out Josh, as you noticed, the sill pan actually has an upturn leg, very important, and we've got the dams at each end, so even if water does get through the sill somehow, it's just going to go into this pan and go to the exterior. It's not going to go into the inside of your house and ruin flooring.
Okay. So a very important piece. So the sill depth's about eight and a quarter inches. It's going to vary, as I said, with the configuration, so just go and measure it. We're going to mark it all the way down the sill. The exterior screw tab is going to sit pretty much flush on the edge here, okay. So you get a nice bite and that'll dictate where it sits in the opening.
JT: Right. So it sits flush, it looks flush, plus you're going to get bite on the framing.
LM: That's right.
Okay. So again, we'll just mark all the way down, so you know where your bead has to go.
JT: Do you want me to start?
LM: Yes. It's going to be continuous bead. You can go in about an inch from that mark, Josh.
JT: Which way?
LM: To the exterior.
JT: Come out an inch?
04:55 LM: So it's going to be about a three-eighth. We've cut our caulk tip down to make about a three-eighth bead of sealant. Make sure there's no gaps. It doesn't need to go under the screen. Now on these wider tracks, I'd recommend putting two beads of continuous sealant all the way down, and then you discontinuous at the very front. Okay. And we're going to run that sealant six inches up the jam leg as well. So you're going to have about a half an inch either side between the rough opening in your frame.
So your jam is going to sit about here.
We want to put a nice big bed of sealant for that to sit in. So this really... If you've missed any sealant on the join or it's been scraped off through the joining process, it's going to sit in this and no water is going to get through that.
JT: I'm beginning to see a theme. Over-sealing is only going to help you.
LM: Yeah, absolutely. You don't want to risk any water getting into the interior of the home. That's why the sill pan is required, that combined with the built-in drainage system of the sill and the sealant, you're going to be good. Alright Josh, so that front one, you're going to want to make discontinuous all the way down, every four-feet-two-inch gap, and we'll be ready to put this in.
JT: Okay, gap right here?