This is part 1 of a ten-part video series.
Transcript of video:
Video 5: Adjustments
Lee Maughan: Okay, Josh, so now we've got all the sealant on the sill ready to receive the frame. We need to flip this actually first, make sure the interior goes to the interior.
Josh Taylor: Yeah.
LM: Why don't we go ahead and do that. It is pretty heavy. It's a little heavier than your folding system. We've got it in front of the opening now.
We want to lift it up and put the nose on the front and tip it in, in one clean swoop.
JT: Right, because of all the sealant.
LM: Yeah. You don't want to disrupt that sealant. You want to just put it nice and easy on the top of the sealant, so it spreads and creates that really good contact.
JT: Alright. Tell me when.
01:06 LM: Now. Okay, now tip it in.
JT: Flush with the outside.
LM: Flush with the outside now, during the install, we may need to tweak this. We don't know how square this opening is.
What's for sure, is that our frame needs to be perfectly square level and plumb, okay?
LM: We'll go through the process of determining that.
JT: What's your reveal on your side?
LM: Alright, so it's important to put this right in the middle. Your gap on either side should be pretty much the same. I've got about three-eighths to about half an inch.
JT: I am at three-eighths...
LM: You are right there? All right.
JT: Maybe... Yeah. I think we're good.
LM: That creates enough gap for your backing rod and sealant at the front, and some shim space as we screw it off, okay?
We've got all our pre-drilled installation holes. We want to shim behind those fixing points, so we don't get any rolling of the frame, it stays nice and flat. Same on the head. We do shim the head on the multi slides, okay?
LM: It's a lot less subject to sagging, because it's not hanging from the top.
It's... All the weight's on the bottom, okay?
LM: Now, on this particular unit, as we know, it's got a screen frame. Now, that screen frame was attached prior to putting in. It concealed the interior screw tab. On these types of systems, I recommend gluing it down or epoxying it down and just using the front installation tab. Otherwise, if we didn't have a screen, you could put screws in both the interior and exterior screw tab, okay?
LM: There's multiple ways you can do this. We prepared the sill, we know it's flat, but we're going to put a level on it through installation, make sure it's dead flat. These are sliding doors. The doors are adjusted with a gap at the bottom, so the seal makes contact with the sill. We need to make sure the sill is nice and dead flat. We've now got our frame in the opening.
We've got our nice even gap on either side.
We put our packers underneath...
JT: You Americans, shims.
LM: Yes, we put our... We packed out underneath the screen to bridge that gap, that quarter inch gap, and we're ready to go. Keep your hardware box handy. It's got all your screws in it. I've pulled them out. Your frame installation screws, your sill installation screws, depending on whether it's a concrete slab or wood. Okay. We've got blue concrete screws, as well as wood screws. We've got our level handy. We've got our shims ready to shim out the fixing points on the jambs and head. We have our drill guns with a long drill bit depending on the header, some of those Parallams can get a bit tough, so it pays to pre-drill prior to installing the screw.
We do need to make sure that this frame is square plumbing level, okay?
04:03 LM: Just like the folding, we need to spend our time on this, getting it perfect, making sure there's no twists in it, so laser level. I love to use a laser level to get that perfect. You can also use cross strings to make sure that it's got no twist and a level. We'll start on the jambs. What we want to do is make sure we get the jambs plumbing level and make sure that our sill tab is still on the sill, so it gets a positive bite. We'll start over here. Bubbles perfectly in the center. Can't say it's good if it's... If you've got a couple of guys, one holding the level, making sure it's nice and straight and one guy putting the screw in.
JT: Tell me when.
LM: Okay, go for it. Okay, good. Why don't we go... We'll go over the other side.
We'll get that side in and then we can just screw it off the whole front.
Okay, that's it there. Alright, very good. This is where you want to do your cross string. Make sure there's no twists in it.
05:18 JT: And then with that one, you just barely snug that up.
LM: Just barely snug it out. You don't want to suck it in. We're going to come back and put shims behind the fixing points. Make sure it's nice and plumb this way as well, okay?
05:33 LM: At this point, the top has to come out a little bit, so we'll have to tap some shims in there to bring that top out.
05:39 JT: Yup, you can actually see it.
05:41 LM: It is perfect. Because we did put the shims under that sill pan and get that sill pan nice and flat before we installed it.
05:51 JT: Did the work early.
05:52 LM: We'll get these jambs taken care of and then we can move to the sill and then the head, okay?
05:57 JT: Great.
05:58 LM: On these, Josh, you can actually use longer shims and insert them from both sides.
06:05 JT: Got it.
06:06 LM: Not like on the folding where we use the nail fin, but this is good in keeping that frame from rolling, and you can just snap those shims off before you go ahead and put your backing rod in.
06:20 JT: Right.
06:22 LM: Okay, right there is good. Very good. You've got interior screw in, move to the exterior.
06:33 JT: A good point for any installation is when you're using shims, if they move, you haven't used the shim.
06:40 LM: Right.
06:41 JT: They gotta be kinda snug still.
06:43 LM: Yup.
06:43 JT: Got it. All right.
06:47 LM: Alright, so there's the jambs. Let's give it one more check. That is perfect.
06:53 JT: It is... Is there any better...
06:54 LM: And that is perfect... You want to check this way as well. You don't want any belly in the jamb or you don't want it sucked in too far too. That's why it's critical to use the shims at you're fixing points and get that perfectly straight.
07:06 JT: Okay, well, that's done.
07:08 LM: We're going to do the head and the sill. I'm going to go along and pre-drill the holes in the front installation screw tab. Then I'm going to come back and actually countersink every hall as well, because the installation screw is actually a flathead and we want that to sit in there nice and flush, okay?
07:26 JT: Okay.
07:27 LM: Prior to putting the screw in, we need to fill the holes with caulk and then surface caulk at the head of the screw as well.
07:33 JT: Okay.
07:34 LM: The reason why it's counter sunk in there is because we have a bull nose piece that we actually click on the front and it needs to clear that screw. The bull nose conceals all the installation screws and creates a nice finish.
07:46 JT: Pre-drill, countersink, sealant, screw, bull nose.
07:51 LM: Exactly.
07:51 JT: That's a lot of steps, man. I'll be in the bathroom. It bores it out.
08:01 LM: That sits below the countersink, it's going to be a nice flush finish, okay?
08:05 JT: Yeah.
08:05 LM: I'm going to go along here and do the rest of them. Alright, so that's counter sunk. It'd be great if you... Let's put some caulk in there and I'll put the screw in. It's important to get it right down in that hole and then some on the surface. As the screw goes in, the head beds in the caulk, there you go.
08:33 LM: Let's just wipe that over the top. We want it to be flat for when we put the bull nose in.
08:38 JT: Got it.
08:39 LM: Okay so, we'll go ahead and do the rest, get that head screwed off. Check it one more time to make sure there's no twist in it...
08:47 JT: And we shim here, up and up?
08:50 LM: We do shim here. Yes.
08:51 JT: Okay.
08:52 LM: Yep.
08:58 LM: So Josh, it's really important that we keep that head track, nice and flat.
09:05 JT: Yeah.
09:05 LM: So, when the doors are riding in that, it doesn't bind.
09:09 JT: Right.
09:09 LM: Okay.
09:17 JT: All right. We are in, sill head, jamb, jamb all done.
09:21 LM: Everything's screwed off now. It's nice and square, plumbing level.
09:25 JT: Yeah.
09:26 LM: Before we put the doors in, we're going to put in our Gummi-buffels in.
09:29 JT: Then take... Would you please say it again?
09:31 LM: A Gummi-buffel.
09:32 JT: Buffel?
09:33 LM: It's a Gummi-buffel.
09:34 JT: Right.
09:34 LM: All right. You'll notice in the track here, on the outermost track, we have these blocks.
09:41 JT: Yeah.
09:41 LM: Okay. They're actually fixing blocks 'cause that's where our fixed panel is going to go.
09:46 JT: Got it.
09:47 LM: Okay. The two doors are going to telescope and slide behind this fixed panel, okay. Before we do that, we want to make sure that we just create a really nice seal down here.
LM: So, no water gets in.
We're going to apply some caulk inside this opening. Now, it doesn't really matter if it's clear or white because you're not going to see it. Make sure you get the caulk all around the joints and a little bit where that Gummi-buffel's going to sit, okay. Now, it's actually a piece of foam, okay. It has this little notch in it. The notch goes in to the opening first, okay. We're just going to press that in and press it down into the caulk. Okay?
JT: And what that does is, it softens only... Oh no, it closes the...
LM: It actually just seals that corner from any water. It's just an added security.
We put one in the fixed panel and we also put one over in the active panel, the panel with the handle.
You know this is the active panel because it actually has the keeper.Yeah, put it all in there. Again, the notched part of the foam in first.
JT: We did a great job sealing this door, because you can see it coming out through here.
LM: Right, and that's what you want to see. All that's going to be concealed anyway, once you put your cover plates on.