LaCantina Sliding Stacking Glass Door Installation (6): Door Installation

January 13, 2015


You'll need some suction cups, a buddy, and a little finesse

This is part 1 of a ten-part video series.


Transcript of video:

Video 6: Adjustments

Lee Maughan: We're ready to put some doors in.

Josh Taylor: Okay. Okay. Not light doors.

LM: Typically, a lot bigger, but they go in a little easier than the folding.

Because you don't have to line up hinge holes and it's pretty quick.

JT: Right. Outside in, up and down. Let's do it.

LM: This is typically how you receive your sliding doors. If the doors are small enough, you may get them flat-packed, but typically the sliding doors are a little bit bigger, taller, heavier. So we put them on these A-frames, okay?

So just be careful when you're opening these. We do shrink wrap each individual panel, so it doesn't fall when you break the banding, but it's always wise just to hold it there. Definitely a two-man job, if not more, the bigger the panels get. The way these install, we're going to install the active panel. So that's the panel with the handle. We're going to install that first. Then the second active and then the fixed. There's a way to do it too. You need to overlap the panels, so the interlocks engage. So we can go through that as we go through it. I'll explain it a little bit more as we hang the doors. Alright, it's time to put the doors in, okay?

JT: Yeah.

01:30 LM: These suction cups are pretty handy when installing the sliding doors. We're going to put the active panel in first, so that's the one with the handle.

It goes on the innermost track.

So what we're going to do is lift it up into the track, enough so the structural leg on the bottom of the panel clears the track and drops into this groove here with the weather seal.

JT: And do you do it from the outside or from the inside?

LM: In this instance, we'll do it from the outside and the bead, the snapping bead, glazing bead, goes to the interior.

JT: You will point that out to me?

LM: Yes.

JT: Great.

02:13 LM: So, we've got the door here on its edge. We're looking at the bottom of the panel. You'll see the structural leg, that goes to the interior as well.

So, that's a good indicator. This seal rides along the length of the seal and seals it from water infiltration. So, this hole here, and we'll do this once we get it in, but that's the adjustment hole. You stick a screwdriver in and adjust these wheels.

JT: Phillips or flat?

LM: Phillips.

JT: Okay.

LM: Okay? So you need a long screw driver to do that.

JT: Got it.

LM: I've actually got a door section over here that we'll have a look at, with the door sliced in half, so we'll get a look at the inner workings, okay?

So let's move our suction cups down a little lower and we'll get either side, and we'll just straddle the sill and lift it in that way. So we're going to go in the inner track, and drop the structural leg into there. We're going to have to adjust the door up, 'cause it's sitting pretty low now on the seals, so we'll adjust these wheels up and make sure that it's on the track. Before we try and move the door, we're going to make sure that it's adjusted right. So, you'll find on each side of the door, there's an adjustment hole. So, what I have here is a little cross-section of a door cut in half. Now, this door here is actually a contemporary clad door. This is aluminum, but for the purposes of what I'm about to show you, it's the same set-up in both doors, okay?

JT: I got it.

LM: So there's the hole in the side of your door.

JT: Yup.

LM: And your wheels are here. There's an adjustment screw here, which is a Phillips. You need a long Phillips. You simply just put it in the hole, find the adjustment, and you can adjust your wheels. Clockwise raises the panel up. Counter clockwise lowers the panel.

JT: With that, Lee, they're probably not equidistant. You gotta plan on adjusting both sides, correct?

LM: That's right, so it's nice and level.

And that seal just touches the metal. It's gotta operate freely, yet create a seal at the bottom. So, you want that nice even eight millimeter, or just under 3-8 reveal on the bottom.

JT: And then there's... I mean, this also is a good...

LM: Yeah, that'll be an indicator if your door's nice and level. So that's perfect. So that was door one. Again, doors read left to right from the exterior.

JT: Okay.

LM: One, we're going to move on to door two, and then last, but not least, we'll put the fixed panel in, which is door three.

JT: Great.

LM: Same method, we'll lift it up into the track until the structural leg falls into that channel.

JT: Yup. That's good.

05:10 LM: Okay, now before we try and operate it, let's adjust it up. Alright, very good. Okay, that's beautiful. Operating freely, We got a nice, even reveal. The seal is touching the middle.

JT: Perfect.

LM: So what we'll do, we'll slide this over. Okay, so, when we put this third door in, which is the fixed door, we can overlap it with the interlock again, okay?

JT: Got it. Makes sense.

LM: This is the fixed panel, Josh.

JT: Yeah.

LM: We've got this fixing block on the bottom of the fixed panel, no wheels. It's a block specified at the right height, so it'll go in and be adjusted already. On the edge of the door we've also got this structural leg that slides into the jamb and these holes align with fixing blocks. And we're going to pop some screws in there, to fix the panel off, okay?

JT: Right. Right.

06:05 LM: Same method, we're going to overlap this middle door and shove it into the pocket, making sure that this fits over the track.

JT: Got it.

LM: Okay. We're going to make sure it's overlapping this middle door. We're going to lift it up into the track and on to the fixed block, okay?

JT: Got it.

LM: That's it. So, and we're going to slide it into the pocket. So we're going to go to the interior and put the screws into that structural leg. Get your three fixed panel block screws...Out of the hardware kit.

They are these little hex heads, you are going to need a 5/16th wrench, okay?

JT: The reason for that is because you can't get a drill in for that track?

LM: That's right. We put the screws on the inside of the track and the cover plate goes over so they're all concealed.

JT: Right.

07:02 LM: But there's three of them, we're just going to down top to bottom and start putting these in.

JT: Top to bottom.

LM: So you do need to make sure that your panel is pushed all the way in, so the holes on the structural leg align with the screw holes.

We've got all our panels in.

JT: Yeah.

LM: We just checked that the doors were level, sealing good and engaging and rolling well. So, once you've done your final adjustments on your wheels, it's time to move to the lock. There is an adjustment feature in the lock.

So, we're going to do a couple of things here. We need to make sure that the doors are adjusted at the right height and when you engage the active door into the jamb, that the lock actually latches, okay? So we're going to do that. Okay. So that is adjusted nicely. The keeper here is adjusted at the right height.

You'll notice that lock here on the face, when the door engages into the keeper, it compresses this pin here, which allows these hook locks to engage, okay?

Now, these can be adjusted with a little flathead screw driver, if need be, okay? So they can go in and out to make sure that it gets a positive engagement in the keeper, okay?

But we had it adjusted pretty good, so I'm going to leave it where it is. We know that that's engaging well, which means the keeper's in the right spot. But you'll notice the screw holes are actually slots, so you can adjust the keeper slightly up, or slightly down. Okay?

Now, what we want to do is, this screw in the middle is actually temporary, okay?

JT: Right. It's a short screw.

LM: It's a short screw. What we want to do is get these three and send them all the way through to your framing, okay?

JT: Got it.

09:06 LM: So, now that we know that that's adjusted nicely, that's adjusted well, we're going to pre-drill two holes, put the top and bottom screw in, remove the middle one and replace it with a long one.

JT: Sounds good.

LM: We're going to get our 5/32nd drill bit...

And we're going to pre-drill two holes at the top and bottom. Okay, so we want to make sure that we put these top and bottom screws in, before we remove this middle one.

JT: I gotcha.

LM: There it is one. Two. We're going to back this little one out, okay, that was just holding it in place. And we're going to send the long screw all the way through to the framing. Alright, now that's nice and secure, we're all set. Okay, we'll check it one more time. Works perfect.


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