Router tables can do terrible things

I designed and built this jig almost a decade ago, and it remains one of the best, most useful shop projects I've ever made. I'm not kidding—you need to build one of these yourself. Let me explain why.

Router tables can be more dangerous than table saws

While the table saw gets all the bad press for being the primary finger-eater in the modern workshop, the router table can do a lot more damage. There is no stitching back on when it cuts off. I see a lot of people all the time who are just way too comfortable putting their fingers way too close to those spinning bits.

This sled began as a way to make small parts secure and to be able to hold them safely. But as I began working on the design, I realized it could be a lot more than a simple safety device. This thing is a legitimate multi-functional tool, unlike anything else that I've seen anywhere else. And the best part is—you can make it all yourself in just an afternoon with little more than a few scraps and a couple of toggle clamps.

I even made some plans with step-by-step instructions. I'll link to them below this video, both in the description area and pinned to the top of the comment section. Grab the plans and build one.

Many commercially made part holders only work if you're using a bearing-guided router bit. I designed mine with tabs on the base plate which can run along a router table's fence, so you can use it with any bit—even without a guide bearing. I think it makes it a lot more versatile.

Secure woodworking workpieces with multiple holding options

I also built in multiple ways to hold each workpiece. For example, sliding blocks keep the workpiece from shifting side to side, while toggle clamps apply downward force. This piece isn't going anywhere—and my fingers? Well away from the bit. I even added a piece of grip tape to the place where the smallest workpieces will be held.

All of this adds up to improved cutting accuracy as well as safety.

As I said, small parts holding is only one of its functions. If you rotate the clamping bar 180°, it becomes a coping sled for cutting tenons or for making cabinet doors.

Most coping sleds require a router table with a miter track. This one works with the fence alone, which gives it this unique advantage. With the addition of a simple stop block, you can make your cuts in two passes—one to remove the bulk of the waste, and a second, lighter pass to achieve a really crisp profile. The combination of toggle clamps and lateral support blocks virtually eliminates any workpiece shift, which might compromise the accuracy of the cut.

Rotate the clamping bar, and it's a coping sled, or circle cutting jig

If you rotate the sled another 90°, it has a third function—as a circle cutting jig. With a series of holes for your center pin, a rough-cut blank is attached. Then the fence is moved to fine-tune its size and make it perfectly circular.

This works on circles up to 10 inches in diameter, though I don't recommend the router table at all as a safe option for very small circles of less than four or five inches.

I have several router sleds and parts-holding jigs—some I've bought and some I've made—but this one may be the most versatile I've ever used. And again, it was really easy to make.

Grab the plans at the link below. Make one of these this weekend. A sled like this will improve your accuracy, and it will keep your fingers safe for many years to come.