In this practical how-to video, Sam from Arden Cabinet MFG walks through exactly how to measure a kitchen for cabinets in two real-world scenarios: when the old cabinets are still in place, and when the room is down to bare drywall. He covers wall runs, ceiling heights, soffits, windows, doors, appliance openings, rough-in locations, and the five most common measuring mistakes homeowners make. Get these numbers right before you order and you'll avoid the most expensive mistakes in a kitchen remodel.

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TRANSCRIPT:

If you're planning new kitchen cabinets, one of the fastest ways to blow the budget is bad measurements. In the next few minutes, I'll show you exactly how to measure your kitchen for cabinets in two real situations: one, when old cabinets are still up, and two, when you're down to bare drywall. By the end, you'll know what numbers matter and how to record them so your layout actually fits. Sam here with Arden Cabinet—don't forget to like and subscribe. Let's get to it.

Here's what you need: a tape measure, a level, painter's tape, a Sharpie or marker of any kind, and something to write on. Graph paper is perfect. A laser measure is optional but not required.

Rule number one: don't measure in your head. Draw a quick sketch of each wall, label them Wall A, Wall B, Wall C, and write the measurements directly on the sketch. Also take wide photos of every wall. Photos save you when you're back home second-guessing yourself.

Scenario 1: old cabinets still installed

When old cabinets are still in place, it's tempting to measure the cabinets and call it done. But cabinets can be out of level, out of square, and sometimes they were built to work with fillers. So we use the existing layout as a clue, but we still need to measure the room.

Wall runs and heights. First, measure the wall run lengths. Measure corner to corner at two different heights—near the floor and around countertop height. If the numbers differ, write both down.

Ceiling heights and soffits. For ceiling height, measure three points: right, left, and center. If the ceiling varies by a small amount—a quarter inch or less—use the smallest measurement. In some older houses, the ceiling endpoints can be off by as much as an inch. If that happens, we'll work with the homeowners to find a solution. Remember, homes move, floors slope, and that affects tall cabinets and crown molding. If there's a soffit or bulkhead, measure floor to the underside of the soffit and record the soffit depth.

Capturing windows, doors, and appliances

After measuring the wall run lengths, the next step is to capture every opening—all windows and all doors.

For a window, record the overall width, overall height, sill height from the floor, and the distance from the nearest corner to the edge of the window trim.

Do the same for doors, and note which way the door swings.

Next are the appliances. Measure the opening for the refrigerator, range, dishwasher, and anything else in the kitchen. Pro tip: record the centerline of key items like the sink and range. That makes planning symmetry much easier.

Scenario 2: bare drywall

Now let's do the same thing when the kitchen is down to drywall. This is actually the cleanest time to measure because nothing is hiding the walls.

Just like before, measure corner to corner at two different heights—near the floor and around countertop height. If the numbers differ, write both down. For ceiling height, measure three points: right, left, and center. Remember: if a wall bows, cabinets don't. In most cases, the number we design to is the smallest usable dimension, because that's what will actually fit.

Recording rough-ins. Record your rough-in locations for plumbing—don't just note that it's "under the window." Give it coordinates: measure from the nearest corner to the center of the drain, and record the height from the floor. Do the same for water lines, gas, outlets, and the hood vent location.

If flooring isn't installed yet, note that clearly—"measurements taken from subfloor"—and write down your planned finish floor thickness. That detail affects toe kicks, dishwasher fit, and countertop height.

The five most common measuring mistakes

Here are the biggest mistakes we see homeowners make.

One: measuring only once. Take each key measurement twice.

Two: forgetting windowsill heights and door swing direction.

Three: not measuring at multiple points, especially floor to ceiling.

Four: ignoring appliance specs. Always confirm the manufacturer's required clearances.

Five: not recording what the measurement is referenced to—corner, trim, or centerline.

Closing thoughts

If you capture wall runs, heights, openings, appliance spaces, and rough-in locations the way we showed you today, you'll have the numbers you need to plan cabinets with confidence—whether the old kitchen is still up or the room is down to bare drywall.

Once the measurements are locked in, then it's time to talk upgrades: roll-outs, pull-outs, inserts, countertop details, backsplash planning, and floating shelves. Those kinds of features change how you use your kitchen every day.

If you'd like a pro to check your measurements before you order, reach out—we're happy to help. Don't forget to like and subscribe.