Install a 4-piece Sterling Shower (2025 Builders' Show)
In the ProTradeCraft LIVE Construction Demonstration Zone, we installed a four-piece shower unit from Sterling (by Kohler) (base, back, side, side). Remodeler Michael Anschel and Dax (just Dax) of Sterling go through the "what" and the "why," while carpenters Swede Carlander and Nick Balkcum show the "how" part of the equation.
TRANSCRIPT
Installing a Sterling shower system is extremely simple—it usually takes 18 to 30 minutes. In fact, this team might even beat that estimate.
Lightweight and Easy to Handle
The panels are designed for quick transport and handling. They’re lightweight and easy to unpack in a garage, carry through tight hallways, and even haul up to a second floor. Once on-site, the shower pan or tub base snaps right into the alcove with minimal effort.
Step 1: Prep the Stud Pocket
A successful installation starts with good planning:
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Make sure the stud pocket is square, plumb, and level—especially at the front and rear corners.
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Ensure the OSB board underneath is load-bearing and level.
Step 2: Lay the Felt Pad or Thinset
Before setting the base, place a felt pad—a sound barrier—onto the subfloor. This helps isolate any noise between the resin-rich OSB board and the resin-rich Vikrell base. Optionally, you can use thinset mortar (1–2 inches max) instead of the felt pad for leveling. Avoid using plaster or gypsum-based materials.
Step 3: Set and Level the Base
Place the pan in the alcove on top of the felt pad.
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If not using a thinset, shim the feet to ensure the unit is perfectly level.
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Once level, secure the base using the included plastic isolation clips—10 come with each unit.
Pro tip: Never drill directly through the tile flange. It’s designed for water containment. Instead, wedge the clips between the flange and the studs and secure them with galvanized truss-head screws. If there’s a gap over 1/8", use a wood shim.
Step 4: Install the Back Wall
Place the back panel on the shower base. The system features a tongue-and-groove design that snaps together like Legos, ensuring the panel aligns the same way every time. No sealants are needed in this system.
Step 5: Install the Side Walls
Before installing the side walls, locate and mark the mixer valve.
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Drill a hole using a hole saw.
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Use the molded centerline on the back of the panel to ensure accurate valve placement.
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Make sure the hole is smaller than the trim escutcheon to cover any rough edges.
The in-walls also use the tongue-and-groove system, interlocking tightly with the back wall. This creates a seam no wider than 1 to 3 credit cards and provides a watertight barrier—any water that hits the seam redirects into the base.
Step 6: Fasten the Panels
Secure the panels directly to the studs using the pre-molded dimples—no pre-drilling needed.
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Drive screws vertically into each dimple, then work your way across horizontally.
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Start fastening from the front to the back—this makes shimming easier and helps minimize visible gaps for a cleaner look.
After the panels are secured, you can immediately drywall down to the flange and mud as needed. Because this system is completely caulkless and adhesive-free, the unit is ready to use the same day—making it perfect for fast remodels and shower conversions.