Paul Ricalde | December 26, 2017


YouTube // Roofing, WRB & Flashing

Drip Edge Installation on an Existing Roof

A look at types of drip edge flashing, how to cut it, and how to retrofit it to an existing roof

 

Drip edge flashing is any flashing that protects a building element by shedding water. The leading edge of the flashing is called the 'drip edge'. 

In this video, @PaulRicalde shows the two main types of roof drip edge roof flashing, how to cut both inside and outside corners on them, and how to retrofit drip edge on a simple roof.

Turns out, not all drip edge flashing perform the same. Some drip edge flashings actually help houses turn to mush.

 

Drip Edge Roof Flashing Types:

  1. L-shape drip edge, which is a simple 90 degrees (shaped like an L) with a flare out at the bottom.
  2. T-shape drip edge, which is (wait for it ... ) shaped more like a T. It is also variously called D-metal (for Drip).

A T-shaped drip edge flashing is better because it adds distance between the edge of the roof and the fascia.

Tool sidebar:

Paul shows a few types of snips and explains a little about why they are called what they are called. Aviation snips come in right and left-hand versions. Right-handed snips can cut circles to the right. Left snips can cut circles to the left. You can also just use tinning snips, which cut straight.

 

At 7:05 Paul begins replacing the drip edge roof flashing

Use a flatbar to remove drip edge nails along the eave and rakes. You may need to use a putty knife to break the seam between the first course and the starter strip. 

Slide flat bar under starter course, and pry out the nails. 

On some roofs, you may need to remove a couple of shingle nails to make some room to work.

Because Paul is working alone, he sets the drip edge flashing in place on the rake and cuts and bends it in place. 

 

Three tips for overlapping drip edge flashing:

  1. Overlap pieces at least a couple of inches shingle-style going down the rake. This channels water away from the roof.
  2. When lapping the eave metal, overlap them in the direction of prevailing view — If the typical view is from right to left, place the left piece under the right piece.
  3. Tip 2 is vetoed by prevailing winds for places with wind-blown rain issues.

 

To cut the lower rake piece in place, slide the lower piece downhill enough to make room to mark, cut, and bend. Mark the straight cuts with a speed square. Cut the initial square cut across the single-ply piece of the top. Next cut back square across the folded part of the top of the T. Cut the 45 degree bird's mouth to allow the long end to be folded around the rake to the eave.

TIP: Make sure to support the long end of the cut — if you let it fall after cutting, it will bend down and kink the drip edge.

Make sure to tuck the drip edge under the starter strip and felt paper. Slide the corner tight to the fascia. Make sure the corner is tight and the bottom edge is tight to the fascia before nailing off the drip edge. Place a nail at one end and then at the other end. 

You may need to nail through the starter strip into the drip edge. If you do, make sure the nails are between openings in the shingle seams above. 

Another tip: when sliding metal, if it doesn't slide in easily, don't force it. go over and see why it is stuck.

 

—Paul Ricalde is a home improvement contractor and fireman in New Orleans, LA. His YouTube channel is rich with construction/remodeling videos.

 

 

Project Type: 

Comments

What u did on the outside corner will work but that is not the proper way. If u did it the right way u would not have that small square missing in the corner. Not trying to be critical because that will work but not as nice. If your interested in the proper way u can contact me. Thanks Rob

Daniel Morrison's picture

Hey Rob: Shoot a quick video of a series of photos and post them or send them to me dmorrison[at]sgcmail.com

 

Dan

The vertical edge of the drip edge should not be flush against the fascia. There needs to be a gap for two reasons.

1 - Capillary water action will allow water to work up behind the lower flange of the drip edge and against the fascia causing rot.

2 - If gutters are to be installed, the vertical leg of drip edge should should extend far enough out to allow the edge to rest INSIDE the gutter and not behind, for the same reason as point #1.

Gutters are set on a pitch, sometimes runs of 50 feet or more. Especially on the low side, a drip edge tight to the fascia will only serve to run water down the fascia behind the gutter. The kick-out at the bottom of the drip edge is not enough to prevent this from happening. You need a 1/2" gap between the vertical edge and the fascia to guarantee water will hit the bottom of that drip edge and then drop into the gutter rather than run down the fascia. 

Good morning,
Could you please give me some insight for how to ensure that a roofing contractor installed the drip edge properly. He already had to redo once because several parts of wood were left exposed. Now it seems he has the wood covered but it is now all choppy looking, as far as not looking seamless, since it's now even more of a pieced together job. The general contractor is coming this afternoon to collect the initial insurance payment. I am at a loss for how to get the job corrected so to have a professional appearance. I appreciate any guidance you could offer. My email is: [email protected]. I have taken pictures of both attempts if that could help you to see better. Thank you very much again!

Daniel Morrison's picture

Should new drip edge metal be installed by nailing down thru asphalt shingles from above?:

Daniel Morrison's picture

No.

It should go under the shingles and underlayment. Much more info here: https://www.protradecraft.com/roof-flashing-guide-drip-edge-valley-flashing

 

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