Two videos about layout, setting the base, laying the pavers, and filling the joints
It's all in the wrist.
The flooring in this apartment is 75 year old oak. It has stood the test of time, but it has some deep gouges in it. Instead of replacing the boards and refinishing the entire floor, I'm going to show you a quick and easy way to do a repair.
All of the materials are readily availabl;e at Home Depot or Lowes.
For the actual repair, I'm going to use Elmer's Damaged Wood Epoxy System, painter's tape sandpaper (80 grit and 120 grit), disposable gloves, rags, multiple colors of wood stain to mix together to match the existing stain. And a quart of Minwax wipe-on Polyurethane.
- The first thing to do is tape off an area around the gouge wherever you do not want wood putty to go.
- The elmer's Damaged Wood is a 2-part epoxy: hardener and epoxy resin.
- Mix equal parts of each part together, kneeding iw with your hands (gloves).
- After mixing, you'll have about an hour of wortk time.
- Use a putty knife to work the epoxy into the hole.
- Try to get it as smooth as possible, but perfect diesn't matter because I will sand it later.
- sand by hand with 80 grit paper with the tape in place to preserve the existing wood finish.
- Get the putty as level as possible and feather the edge, especially the tailing edge, because that will make a big difference in appearance.
- You may need to slightly peel back the tape edge to feather the putty nicely.
- After sanding with 80 grit, moive to 120 and feather more.
- Be careful peeling off the tape—especially on an old floor—because the tape may pull up the old finish. Peeling slow is best.
- When the tape is pulled up, check to make sure there are no hard edges. If you have some, sand the filler, not the finish. When you apply stain, any imperfections will stand out, so feather it out as much as you can.
- Wipe the floor clean to prepare for stain.
- Mix the stains to match the existing floor color (dark walnut and Kona in this case).
- Apply the stain with a foam applicator (the rough surface of the foam will cause streaking, which will match the wood grain.
- Apply wipe-on polyurethane to blend the dull spots of the patches into the existing, more shiny, polyurethane finish.
The resulting repairs are almost indistinguishable. The floor is far from perfect, but this repair method makes a huge improvement at a fraction of the cost of replacing floor boards and refinishing the entire floor.
For the carpenter who has everything, and needs a place to put it.
Some features to look for:
- Extension cord on a hose reel pokes through the floor to power up the trailer (and eliminate having to roll them back in every night to lock the trailer).
- Eight-foot 'garage' for work bench and miter stand.
- Narrow shelves for biscuits, screws, nails, electrical parts.
- Deeper storage for pullout bins
- Five foot pullout boxes for long clamps, sledgehammers, saw tracks, levels, jamb level, etc.
- Shelf storage for large tools (miter saw, portable table saw, bucket boss, pocket hole station, planer.)
- Full-height vertical cabinet for tools and Blum mini-press for 32-mm cabinet making.
- Cubby for air compressor which is plumbed through the floor for draining the tank and also supplied with an air hose that runs to the front hose reels where the electrical cord is.
- Cabinet and shelves for saw horses, dolly, air hoses, cabinet lift, extension cords, drop cloths ...
- Tall niches for four-foot ladders, carpenter's squares, nail bags, brooms, dust pans, vacuums, etc.
- Power tool niches for skill saws, sawzalls, rotary hammer, grinder, angle drill, biscuit joiner
- Bins for framing guns, track saw, multiple SKIL saws, extra nail guns and finish nailers, more drills, batteries (charged and uncharged.
- Charging station for tool batteries.
- Bigass mechanic's tool chest: 3 42-inch boxes providing 39 drawers. All of the drawers are labeled.
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